Running the Ancient Volcano

A Goat Rocks Stage trip report.

I’m a desert rat at this point, spending the last 20 years in Arizona, but I will jump at any chance to visit and explore the vastness of the PNW landscape. Last year, My Spring Energy reached out to me to see if I’d be interested in attending an Aspire Adventure Running trip in WA to shoot some promo images. I jumped at the opportunity as I had attended one of Aspire’s trips a few years back and that trip in the North Cascades, was so memorable for me.

Photos by Steven Mortinson

My takeaway from my first Aspire adventure? You just show up and run! Camp was all setup, food was prepared. It was bougie run camp. The morning of that first run they dropped us off via boat on the Canadian border and we had to run 50 miles back to camp up and over Desolation Peak. Aid was provided for us, but it was more about the adventure of just carrying everything on your back. When we got back, food and drinks were waiting. It was marvelous. Yes, I wanted to do that again.

Now, I had circumnavigated the Wonderland Trail around Mt. Rainier a few years back, but I really had no knowledge of the neighboring Goat Rocks Wilderness. The Wonderland was one of the most magical places I’d ever run, almost like an alien planet. Some quick research of the Goat Rocks showed that I’d be in for high alpine running, covering a section of the PCT that included glacial lakes and an extinct volcano wilderness. Aspire’s itinerary covered 50 miles over two days, including 14k of ascent? SIGN ME UP!

Upon arrival in Packwood WA, I was quickly greeted by other runners and some familiar Aspire faces including Abram Dickerson, who founded the guiding outfit back in 2014. Alyssa Clark, my Spring Energy teammate, was also there with Steven Mortinson, who was shooting photography.

You could feel the excitement amongst everyone. Everyone was there to have their own experience, but we were all there to run and take in the majesty of the Goat Rocks. After some spectacular dinner (they literally will cater to everyone), we got an early night’s rest preparing for the first 20 miles of the route.

Day 1 was an ascent up and over Angry Mountain to Goat Lake, then back down to Snowgrass Flats and Chambers Lake. After a short drive up the forest road, we unloaded onto the single-track trail that headed straight up Angry Mountain. Runners started to group up together, and I started to get to know Alyssa and Steve. Alyssa is an incredibly strong runner and after some quick conversation, I realized that we had run many of the same races, and sometimes at the same time. I knew quickly that if she shared the same love for insane vertical rugged ultramarathons as I did, it was going to be a fun couple of days.

Although I live Flagstaff (Arizona with trees), the level of greenery is like nothing else in the dense forests of the Cascades. The green has green. It’s almost luminescent. After a punchy climb, we finally broke through the luscious tree line to bright blue skies and amazing views of Mt. Rainier and Mt. Adams. “This is why we’re here,” I remember thinking.

The single-track ridgeline down to Goat Lake was phenomenal. I had to stop frequently to take it all in. It’s moments like that when you feel so tiny in such vast beauty that you remember why trail running is like no other. After a short stop at the glacier lake for lunch, Alyssa and I decided to turn on the jets and bomb the descent back down to the Aspire group at the trails end, who were waiting with snacks and beverages. The evening was spent with a nice fire and some time by Walupt Lake relaxing. Day 2 would be longer. 30 miles and a touch more climbing.

Day 2 conveniently started from camp. Overnight a storm had blown in and with it, a tremendous amount of smoke from a fire north of us. Although it made the visibility a little hazy, we weren’t about to let it ruin our fun. The route would take us up to Sheep Lake, where we’d join the PCT up to the summit of Old Snowy Peak. From there it was ridgeline running all the way to White Pass campground where there was talk of victory tacos awaiting us.

As we departed the campground, Alyssa reminded me that Karel Sabbe was currently attempting the FKT for the Pacific Coast Trail. We knew he was close, and wondered if we run into him? With a stroke of luck, it didn’t take long. I noticed a trail runner up ahead as we were starting our first climb. We passed and said hello. Karel and I looked at each other in passing, but I didn’t think anything of it in the moment. After a 1/4 mile I stopped and said, “I think that was him.”

Then he rounded the corner, and we started chatting. Karel and I both have history at the Barkley Marathons. He mentioned that he had read a race report of mine. I was star struck.
“Like, you know who I am?”
“No, I know who YOU ARE!”
I was very flattered and asked if he would let us tag along for a few miles. He was happy to have the company.

As we made our way to the ridgeline and summit, I was in awe in how fast he was moving. He was on the last stretch to the Canadian border, and he looked fresh. He was also days ahead of the record. I just couldn’t believe it. Alyssa and I departed with Karel at Old Snowy Peak as we wanted to tag the summit and we’d try and catch him on the way down.

The descent from Old Snowy was epic. Loose shale and rocks just fell apart under our feet. For a mile, it sounded like running on broken plates. As we made our way back down to the forest, I pushed ahead. I wanted to catch back up with Karel before the campground. With about a half mile to spare, I managed to close the distance and share some time with him and his family at the campground. Running into Karel just made the trip that much sweeter.

One by one, the Aspire runners started to roll in. Tacos for everyone! It was a wonderful running experience, but sharing it with staff and runners really made it feel special.

Aspire had done it again. They had wowed me with their kindness and hospitality, and they had showed me a side of Washington I had never seen. The group caters to all levels, and everyone has that opportunity to experience something special at their own pace. The camaraderie that the runners share, the friendships gained, and the remoteness of it all is why I’ll continue to go back.

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