“Stehekin” is an indigenous word meaning “the way through”, for over 9,000 years the Stehekin River Valley has served as a travel corridor connecting the rain shadowed steps of the eastern Cascades with the lush forested coastal regions of the Salish Sea. Dividing these ecosystems lie the formidable North Cascades. Stehekin is a direct reference to the river whose headwaters are a network of alpine snowfields and waterfalls that drain into a rugged valley formed over centuries of glaciation. Woven into this mountain landscape is a ribbon of trail paralleling the river and terminating at the shores of Lake Chelan where crystal waters meet a shoreline lined with an endless crown of mountain peaks.
Day 1: Cascade Pass
We’ve built our Stehekin itinerary around the biggest views, best trails, and the cleanest line into the valley. After an early rendezvous and shuttle, the trip kicks off at Cascade Pass. It’s a 23 mile day and the 3,000’ of climbing is largely front loaded into the first 3.5 miles. The rewards come quickly as runners leave the forest canopy and step into a rocky alpine valley surrounded by high peaks, glaciers, and waterfalls. From the pass the views are long and they beacon to fresh legs practically pulling runners into a 20 mile descent along the Stehekin River. While there is no “cutoff” runners need to make it to High Bridge camp by 6pm to catch the last park shuttle to the Stehekin Valley Ranch. I’ve missed the ride more than once, which means an extra couple miles along the river to finish out the day.
Basecamp: The Stehekin Valley Ranch
Aspire basecamps are a source of pride and joy all summer long. But as the days shorten, temperatures drop, and the chance of inclement weather increases we turn our sights on more formidable lodges and cabins for our accommodations. Our stay at the Stehekin Valley Ranch is the pinnacle of “rustic opulence”. The ranch is family owned and operated by Cliff Courtney, his sons, and a great team of seasonal staff. Cliff was raised on the ranch and since 1983 has grown his vision of a full-service basecamp on a foundation of good food and hard work. Gardens, hay fields, horse corrals, and a full service lodge and cookhouse service hungry hikers and visitors from across the world. Full course breakfast, lunch, and dinner with homemade pies are staples of everyday life along with the perpetual hearth fire and coffee pot always ready for a “cowboy” pour.
Day 2: Climb Mt. McGreggor or Choose Your Own Adventure
Over the years the Aspire team have scouted a variety of trails and routes, always working towards an itinerary that optimizes the Stehekin experience. We think we’ve found it, but the beauty of this trip is that once runners have arrived, much of the Stehekin experience is based on a “choose your own adventure” ethic. Folks are welcome to lengthen or shorten their trail miles, from 0 to 30+. Opting out of running and scheduling a massage is always an option as well.
Our standard go-to option for day two of the Stehekin trip is a run up Mt. McGregor. McGreggor is the highest point in the Stehekin Valley. It’s a 8 mile one-way climb that gains a solid 6,500’. The return for the effort are golden larches, expansive views, and a heart pumping summit scramble for those comfortable with a bit of craggy scrambling and exposure. The bench just short of the summit, is the perfect lunch spot and an ideal place for an afternoon nap if the weather cooperates. Turn around times are based on a budget of being back to the ranch in time for a shower, beverages, and dinner.
Day 3: Stehekin Exploration
No roads lead to Stehekin. All entry and exit is limited to a boat ferry up Lake Chelan, a chartered float plane, or via foot one of the many trails that criss cross the Cascades. Consequently, the character of the hundred or so permanent residents, is defined by this isolation, resilience, and creativity. The resulting community is an enclave of gardens, homesteads, and ranches. We encourage runners to take a day to run through “town”, rent a bike, or stroll through the historical sites along the valley floor. A few highlights are worth mentioning:
The Stehekin Valley Pastry Company, family owned and operated this bakery will leave a lifelong impression. Expresso, icecream, and a summer’s worth of handmade pastries, pies, and cinnamon rolls fill the counter.
The Buckner Orchard and homestead were acquired by the National Park Service when the North Cascades National Park was created in 1968. The working orchard has been maintained by the park service and the orchard gates are open to the public for wandering and tasting.
The Landing is the cosmopolitan center of Stehekin. Here the national park office, post office, and various cafe’s line the shores of Lake Chelan. A lakeside park and picnic tables dot the shore and the cool alpine waters are particularly refreshing on a hot afternoon.
All of these sites and more are an easy walk from the ranch and can be accessed via a national park shuttle that runs between the landing and the 11 miles of maintained road connecting the lake to the mountains. The shuttle is free for those staying at the ranch, and it will drop you back just in time to hear the dinner bell.
Day 4: Out Via the Pacific Crest Trail or Rainbow Pass
Time follows its own arc in Stehekin. By day 4 it isn’t really clear how long you’ve been there or if there is any other world outside of this contemporary Rivendale.
Multiple trails lead out of the valley, though we prefer one of 2 options. The standard route follows the Pacific Crest Trail. Given the season, it’s inevitable that we fall in line with at least a handful of through hikers who began their journey nearly 2,600 miles earlier at the Mexican border. This route to Highway 20 and the Aspire shuttle is 13 miles with a steady 3,500’ climb following creeks and rivers back to civilization.
Option two incorporates a longer day in the hills, covering 21 miles and 8,300’ of climbing over Rainbow Pass. The extra miles come with alpine lakes and big views but, finish at the same place, the Bridge Creek trailhead. Here the Aspire team has snacks, drop bags, and libations waiting.
To encapsulate the whole of the Stehekin experience into one word, it would have to be “magical”. The time of year, the juxtaposition of wilderness and opulence, the food, the ranch, the pie, the people. The whole of the journey seeps into the cells of the body and lodges permanently into the psyche. Forever after Stehekin becomes a place spoken of in awed, mystical, and somewhat reverential tones.
